These wristwarmers are a quick addition to a cooler weather wardrobe, with a nice little notch for your thumb, and the texture of the post stitches. For as simple as it was to make them, I can tell I’ll be wearing them a lot as it gets colder.
This pattern uses a G hook and “Vanna’s Choice” Lion Brand yarn. Purple, obviously. 🙂
Fps=Front Post Stitch
Bps=Back Post Stitch
dc 1 per ch
sl 1 and dc in the first stitch, fps in the next, and alternate like that until the end of the row, sl 1 and dc or bps according to what was done in the last row, making sure that the fps and bps line up; do 3 rows of this, using fps instead of bps in the second.
sl 1 into the opposite end of the row, attatching the ends to form a loop that would grow into a cylinder
fps the end stitches together
alternate fps and dc in every other stitch for 10 rounds.
sc 1, sl 1, and weave in the ends.
repeat the steps of the pattern to make a second wristwarmer.
So, some of you might be familiar with the “divine hat“, and let me tell you: it is positively brilliant! It also gave me the chance to learn front post stitch/ back post stitch, which is one that you will definitely be seeing used here again. I started following the pattern, but after the first round or two, I kinda just did my own thing.
Anyway, I had been wanting to make a beret type hat for a while now, and I thought “why not combine thedivine hat pattern with a beret?” After all, the only real difference between your typical hat shape and a beret is that the circle at the top is bigger and the decreasing more drastic.
So, this is more a “recipe”, because it’s a stylistic adaptation of someone else’s pattern:
It uses a J hook and then an H hook, and Caron Simply Soft. (Nearly a full skein of the stuff, if you have the average size.)
Fps=Front Post Stitch (if you are unfamiliar with this stitch, like I was, just look here for a nice tutorial on it as well as the back post. It makes a lovely end product, and it’s really easy.)
Bps=Back Post Stitch
Make a “magic circle” (Which you make thusly: You take the yarn, and make a square knot, only you don’t pull it tight. It keeps the center of circular pieces nice and closed, because you can tighten it after the stitches have been made in it, unlike just chain stitching a loop.)
Dc 15 around the magic circle (using J hook)
Fps around the circle in every stitch
fps in every fps stitch, dc in between the fps
make sure that your fps are lining up, in order to make that spiffy swirl pattern
increase 1 dc in each space between the fps every other row- as the circle expands, you’ll still have the same amount of fps lines
continue until your circle is roughly 4 to 6 inches bigger than your head in diameter (all on one side)
make a new fps in the middle of every space between the fps rows already present
switch to your H hook! go around 2 or 3 rounds, then decrease 1 dc in every segment of dc’s in between the fps (do NOT decrease out any fps) every other row for 3 or 4 rows, then every row until it is the right size opening for your head
do 2or 3 rows where every other stitch is fps, and the ones between are bps, sc 1, sl 1, tie off and weave in ends. Tighten the magic circle by pulling on the original loose end, and tie a knot in it, then weave it in.
Well, I’ve written another pattern! It’s a lot like my buttonhole scarflet, but I tried to make it more of a polished pattern this time. That and it’s a neckwarmer instead of a scarflet. One of my favorite parts is the heart-shaped button I made for it! I just took one of the wooden branch buttons I made and sanded it until it was heart-shaped. It’s so cute! Anyway, here’s the pattern.
This pattern uses a H hook, Caron simply soft, and a 1″ diameter button.
(Even though the button I used was a heart shape, I compared it to a round button and it’s the equivalent of a 1″ diameter button.)
Ch = Chain
Dc = double crochet
Inc = increase by making 2 of the specified st in 1 st
Sc = single crochet
Sl = slip stitch
Foundation Row:To begin, ch 86. Sl in 17th chain from hook to form buttonhole. Dc in same st and each across until 1 ch remains. Make 6 dc in last ch and begin working on other side of the starting chain. (75 dc)
Rnd 1: Skip the other side of the ch with 6 dc in it. Dc in next ch and each across until you reach the buttonhole. Make 25 dc around (not into the stitches of) the chain loop, dc in each st across until you reach the dc-6 from the previous row. [Dc inc] in each of the next 6 sts. (175 dc)
Rnd 2: Dc in each of the next 78 sts. [Dc inc] in each of the next 3 sts, dc in next st, [dc inc] in the next 3 sts. Dc in each of the next 78 sts. [Dc inc in next st, dc in next st] 6 times. (187 dc)
Rnd 3: Dc in each of the next 80 sts. [Dc inc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times, [dc inc] in next st. Dc in each of the next 84 sts. [Dc inc in next st, dc in next st] 5 times. (197 dc)
Rnd 4: Dc in each of the next 85 sts. [Dc inc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts] 4 times. Dc in each of the next 86 sts. [Dc inc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 2 times, dc in next st. [Dc inc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 2 times. (205 dc)
Rnd 5: Dc in each of the next 86 dc; [dc inc] in next st. [Dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc inc in next st] 2 times. Dc in each of the next 87 sts. [Dc inc] next st. [Dc in each of the next 7 sts, dc inc in next st] 2 times. (211 dc)
Rnd 6: Dc in each of the next 91 sts. [Dc inc] in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts, [dc inc] in next st. Dc in each of the next 97 sts. [Dc inc] in next st, dc in each of the next 8 sts, [dc inc] in next st. Dc in each of the next 5 sts. (215 dc) Sc in next st, sl in next st. Finish off, weave in ends.
Attach button at the end of the original chain opposite the buttonhole.