Actually, I made this hat as a gift…but it’s given me a few fun ideas.
It’s just a basic hat, plus a few improvements:
Using a yarn similar in gauge to Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, and a G hook:
Rnd 1: Make a magic circle, sc 6 in the loop and pull it closed. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Make 3 dc in each sc around. (18 dc)
Rnd 3: [Make 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, make 2 dc in next st] around. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: [Dc in next st, make 2 dc in next st. Dc in next 2 sts, make 2 dc in next st] around. (42 dc)
Rnd 5: [Dc in each of the next 2 sts, make 2 dc in next st. Dc in each of the next 3 sts, make 2 dc in next st] around. (54 dc)
Rnd 6: [Dc in each of the next 3 sts, make 2 dc in next st. Dc in each of the next 4 sts, make 2 dc in next st] around. (66 dc)
Sc in next st and each around until your hat reaches just above your eyebrows.
Earflaps – Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Dc 4, then sc 4, and sl st in the next stitch. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1; dc across the earflap.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Dc 4, then sc 5, and sl st in the next stitch. Turn.
Row 4: Repeat row 2; finish by making a sl st into the next st of hat brim.
Sc around the back half of the hat and repeat the earflap on the other side.
Dc down the front edge of the earflap, up around the triangle just formed, and dc 2 in the point.
Sc around the back of the hat and do the same to the other earflap.
Sc all the way around, increasing on the points of the earflaps to keep them flat.
Sl st the last stitch to smooth the edge, and weave in the ends.
Cut about 9 18-24″ lengths of yarn (either coordinating color, or more of the same) and pull the lengths through the stitches on the points of the earflaps. Only put about 2 strands through a single stitch to spread out the pull and avoid stretching out your stitches. Fold strands in half through the earflap stitches and make the ends even; then braid the bundle, knotting them at the end and trimming the tails of the braids to make them even.
Custom Sweater Boots!
Aren’t they cute? Don’t you want to make some? Here’s what you do:
Find a pair of shoes with good soles. (In my case, they were originally a pair of sneaker flats that I absolutely detested…but the insides were SUPER comfy.)
Remove the uppers from the soles. (ALL the shoe, pretty much, except for the bottom, and the edges of the bottom. When I did this part, I felt a definite sense of “someone’s going to tell on me”, because I was taking a pair of scissors and destroying my shoes… it was so fun! Moving on…)
VERY CAREFULLY, sew a blanket stitch around the edge of your sole with the yarn you’ve chosen (I used Vanna’s Choice. One of the 3.5 oz skeins made one boot plus a bit left over for sewing on buttons or playing with the cat. Go nuts, haha! ^_^) ANYWAY: I say very carefully, because it’s a thick thing you’re running a needle through, so pay attention to your fingers. O_O Seriously folks. Also, don’t do this part by machine. If you can figure out a way that you can, without seriously damaging your sewing machine, kudos to you, but I can’t think of any scenario where a machine would come out ok. Make sure your stitches are about 1/4″ apart, from the outer edges of the yarn.
Once you’ve sewn all the way around your sole, use a G hook (or an appropriate size, whatever will get a nice tight product with the yarn you’re using while still letting it be a bit stretchy and nice) to sc all around in the loops at the top of the blanket stitch, joining the round with a slip stitch.
Begin making sc in each stitch around the second row. As you sc, your boot may start to flare outwards (like a flying saucer is sprouting from your sole instead of a boot! You don’t want that) so at the curved places of the sole (like the toe area and the heel, but also around the instep, it just depends on the soles you use) decrease one or two in a row until the “wall” of your boot is pointing straight up instead of out.
Sc around without increasing or decreasing until you get to a height where you want to bring the toe area in. (You can try these on as you go. In fact, please do so that you don’t find out at the end whether it fits or not.)
To start forming the top of the foot area (and again, you’ll want to be trying it on as you go) crochet around until you’re ready to begin working around the toe. Decrease every other stitch up the side, sc 3 or 4 across the tip of the toe, then decrease every other stitch down the other side. Turn.
Continue decreasing every other stitch up the side, sc 3 or 4 across the tip of the toe, and decreasing every other stitch every row just in the toe area until top of shoe is finished. Be sure to try it on frequently in this stage.
Sc from the toe area on to the side of the shoe. Sc all the way around for 2 rounds, joining each with a sl st.
Sc around to a spot an inch before the middle of the outer ball of your ankle, then sc in the front loops another inch. Ch 1, turn.
Sc around to right before the spot you turned, and sc in the back loops (of the inch you made sc in the front loops. This will form an overlap). Turn.
Sc back and forth 6 more rows.
To form the first buttonhole, ch 6, sc in the 6th sc from the base of the ch, sc around, turn.
Sc across. When you’re sc’ing over the buttonhole ch, sc 5 AROUND the ch.
Make 7 rows of sc between each buttonhole (3 total) and sc 7 rows after the 3rd.
Granite stitch (ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st) around the top once, and down the sides twice.
Now, it didn’t work for me today, but I know why, and I think it will next time!
Here’s what I learned:
Don’t put the sock in when your hair is too wet. That pretty much just kills all curl action.
There’s no real need for a hairtie, and it could put a crimp in your hair. So if you do use one, don’t tighten it by wrapping around again like you would normally. In fact, if you want security and no crimp, I’d say a bandanna or a wide ribbon tied around the “sock bun” would fit the bill nicely.
Even though it didn’t curl my hair like I wanted, because of the method, the roots of my hair dried first and gave me some nice volume, and a decently wavy look beyond what I normally have.